“Mum, why don’t we move to Nepal? We have some family and friends there and we already like that place.”, an eight year old me telling this to mum. This is one of the few memories that I have of childhood, constantly suggesting my mother that we should move to Nepal, move to the Himalayas.
Twenty years later around the summer of 2017 some friends of mine from the previous organization (one of them being Gauri) from Mumbai made plans to visit Himachal Pradesh. I had moved back to Pune and was working the same 9-6 job, but now for a different organization. At first I did not give it much thought and was trying to put it off, but I don’t know what made me go for it. I guess the love for the Himalayas just made me think that I will have a good time. September 2017 I packed my bags and headed to one of the life changing trips of mine to the Himalayas. Don’t get me wrong, this wasn’t my first trip to the mountains, it wasn’t like this was the first time I visited the Himalayas and I found nirvana. But I can definitely say that this trip changed me from inside completely and I started to question all the things I had done in life, the things I am doing and the things that lies ahead for me.
Our itinerary consisted of Chandighar, Amritsar, Atari-Wagha Border, Dalhousie and McLeod Ganj, out of these I was only fascinated by one place, McLeod Ganj. So we planned out few details, made a rough plan and hopped on a plane, one of us being Gauri (the founder of Paakhi Travels). We started from Amritsar where we has the privilege of visiting the Jallianwala Bagh before it was re-done then we had a blissful prayer and langar at the most beautiful Golden Temple, followed by an evening at the Atari-Wagha border which filled our hearts and soul with immense patriotism.
I had read about the history of McLeod Ganj and the Dalai Lama temple in different articles and just the sense of visiting the temple brought some peace in me, something which I was searching for since a very long time. I wanted to visit the monastery thinking probably I would have an epiphany and somehow it will show me a path to follow in life that will bring peace in me. I wasn’t completely wrong, though it didn’t bring peace in me, but the desire to find it grew stronger. I am not a religious person but whenever I used to look at pictures of monasteries it used to always bring a sense of calm in me and that is one of the reasons why McLeod Ganj excited me the most.
Memory of a particular road leading up to McLeod Ganj is still imprinted in my mind. Though it was a long drive I could not take my eyes off the mountains which were growing bigger and bigger as we went higher up the mountain roads. I remember my friends napping inside the SUV while we were heading towards Dharamshala and I was awestruck with the sheer nature of the Himalayas, the huge green mountains covered with towering pine trees, I was in heaven. As we went higher up the mountains a gush of cold fresh air entered my lungs and even the dead cells in my brain came back to life. You see after living in Pune and Mumbai all I was breathing until now was smoke, smog and smell and once you get a whiff of pure oxygen, it’s like cocaine, it frees up your mind, you’re able to think much better, you’re active and you get an amazing feeling inside your body and you’re hooked on-to it. But unlike cocaine it does not kill you 😀
At dusk we reached McLeod Ganj, got ourselves rooms with the most beautiful view, it was so beautiful that we didn’t even realize that the beds were okay-ish, washrooms were not that great and the whole room was kinda okay. But the whole valley was visible and we did not think twice before booking, we were as excited as a child at a carnival. After we had made the payments down at the counter and played with some dogs we went up and saw that our rooms were filled with fog, it was the clouds that had entered in our room as we forgot to shut balcony doors close. Can you imagine, the moment we stepped in our rooms we were greeted with clouds, there couldn’t have been a much better welcome we could have imagined. I fell in love with the Himalayas, again.
The next day we headed up to the Bhagsu waterfall, which was a short hike that ends at a nice waterfall, saying nice because of all the tourist and shops that have opened right next to the waterfall, else the waterfall is just great. Then we went around the main market to hog some delicious Tibetan delicacy. Walking down the streets of McLeod Ganj itself is so refreshing, it takes you back in time, a calm composed city I can describe it as.
The next highlight was the Norbulingka Institute, which we visited the next day and learnt so much about the Tibetan culture and how the youngsters of today are still thriving to preserve it. Saw amazing artwork done by the students learning and working there. A guide was appointed to us at a minimal fee and she informed us about how the people of Tibet suffered and are still suffering under the control of China, it was heartbreaking to hear that such peaceful people have to endure through all of this.
There is a monastery inside the institute as well and the moment you step inside it, there is a strong sense of spirituality. Silent, little dark, with golden Buddha statue gleaming at the end of the room, it was a visual treat. This is what I had come to see I said to myself. The sense of peace I find inside a monastery or in a gurudwara is beyond words. I sat there, eyes closed, just soaking in the calmness and being there in the moment. I can’t say I was praying because I didn’t ask for anything or prayed to any god, I can’t say I was meditating, because I didn’t know how to back then. But the sense of peace that 10 minutes bought me, I hadn’t felt that in ages. This is the reason why I am always fascinated by the teachings of Buddha. My whole life I have been searching for peace and I continue to still and being inside a monastery brings me that complete calmness for those 10-15minutes I am in there. I wish I never left that place.
Norbulingka Institute
The trip to McLeod Ganj wasn’t just a travel destination for me, I was going through some rough time back then. It taught me that even after going through the darkest time, there will be a time when you will find happiness. It ignited the spark in me to pursue the path of peace and I am still on it, searching how to come close to it. And most importantly, it taught me how to love every aspect of life. Because when you’re up in the mountains you will love each and every thing, from mountains, to pine trees to the fluffy doggos to the amazing rajma chawal, the Himalayas is filled with love and lovely people.
McLeod Ganj was just amazing, I wish to go back there again some day. Given it doesn’t turn too touristy by then.
Few of our image dump
